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QUESSTIONS  &  ANSWERS

Question: I have never had a dog before. Would you recommend a Tibetan Terrier?
Answer: It really depends on what you expect from a dog. If you want a robotic instantly obedient dog, a Tibetan Terrier is not for you. If you want a dog that can think for themselves, be independent and arrogant, have an inscrutable nature, and a sense of humour and fun second to none, then get a Tibetan Terrier. There are people who have had puppies and just could not cope with their nature, and the `shock' and challenges of owning a Tibetan Terrier. Max was returned to me because his owners could not cope with his TT-ness. He loves kids of all ages. He is so laid back he is almost horizontal, a family dog, no ifs and buts about it. He would fit in anywhere, and fall in with any activity or lack thereof. Maggie, on the other hand, is a whole different ball game, although she is also great with kids. If there is a different way to do something Maggie will find it. Getting her to do as she told is a game of wits, and boy can she bark. Molly is a lady through and through, but again does things in her own way, in her own time. Leah is a cuddler and her sister Jill is a hooligan, indeed she is a loveable rogue. Zoe is a doll and her daughter Tara can find mud and dirt in sterile environment (she is white), can manufacture a mat two seconds after being bathed and groomed, and loses enough hair to stuff a mattress. Jake is an out and out thief; leave down your cup of tea, your glasses, the book are trying to read, and off he goes with it through the flap. The amount of things I find in the garden you would not believe, and as for the remote control, that is dead and buried somewhere along with a large stash of various items, and like his mother he is a muck-lark. Gus is a nibbler rather than a kisser, and though he arrived here at eighteen months old, he settled right in, but took a while to gain confidence in the show ring. Now he shows like an old trooper. They are all different, all individual thinkers, but they all share a great capacity for love, and fun. Tibetan Terriers are a family dog, but are you the family for them?

Question: Why are they called Terriers if they are not?
Answer: When they were first registered with the Indian Kennel Club most small dogs were registered as “Terriers”. The English Kennel Club subsequently registered them as “Lhasa Terriers”, but in the 1930s this was split into two distinct breeds the Lhasa Apso and the Tibetan Terrier, and the “terrier” name stayed. They are simply misnamed, as true terriers go to ground, and are shown in the Terrier Class, whilst Tibetan Terriers are shown in the Companion/Non Sporting/Utility classes.

Question: Do Tibetan Terriers bark?
Answer:
Yes they tend to bark at unusual noises as it is their instinct to warn us, but they can be trained to stop once you have been alerted to what they perceive as a threat. They are not a yappy or barky dog, but when they miss their people they have been know to get up to all kinds of mischief to get attention, and this includes barking.

Question: Are Tibetan Terriers non-allergenic?
Answer:
This really depends on the degree of allergy. I personally would welcome the sufferer to come to my home and spend some hours with my dogs. So far I have seen no reaction to their hair, but that is not to say it could not happen at some time in the future. I myself have asthma, as have two of my sons, but we live quite happily with our Tibetan mob and no ill affects. However, I think it best to place a puppy in this situation only if the family live nearby and I can monitor their progress, so that the puppy can be returned immediately if it does not work out. Travelling any great distance is out of the question, as this would be too upsetting for the puppy. Sadly, I did have one puppy returned from an excellent home because his poor owner got an allergic reaction to the puppy kisses.

Question: What method of identification is best; microchip or tattoo?
Answer: We have been micro-chipping our adults and puppies for many years now here at Siddhartha, and fully endorse the microchip as a safe and secure means of identification. Our puppies rarely bat an eyelid when the chip is implanted, though some of the boys tend to complain a little, but it is soon forgotten, and the adults don’t seem to notice at all.

Question: What should I expect within the first few days of bringing my puppy home in terms of behaviour and health?
Answer: When you first take a puppy home there is a stress associated with the change in environment. Some puppies will exhibit a decrease in appetite (they have no competition from their littermates now). At no time should your puppy be lethargic or completely stop eating or drinking. The puppy you purchase from “SIDDHARTHA” will be Vet checked, and all vaccinations will be current for the age of the puppy. Your new puppy should be active, playful, and curious. If at any time you think your puppy is not behaving normally you should contact Maureen for advice or seek Veterinary care.

Question: Will my new puppy cry at night?
Answer:
Most puppies will cry at night for the first few days until they settle into their new home. Try letting him see you at night for a week or so. You could place the crate where you can touch it. I have spent many a night with my fingers through a cage. They are pretty obsessed about being near their people. If this does not work, try letting him cry for a few nights. It will soon end. The worst thing you can do is go to him while he is crying and take him out of his crate. The little devils soon cotton on that crying is a way to get attention. He could also be crying because he needs the toilet, so make sure he has gone before you put him to bed.

Question: How often (and how much) should I feed my puppy each day?
Answer:
Your puppy should have access to water 24/7. Puppies are not in the habit of over eating and will only gorge themselves if food is withheld. Most Tibetan Terrier puppies will eat between one and one and a half cups of food each day divided into three or four meals – see our section called ‘Puppy Advice’ for the regime we follow.

Question: Are their certain puppy snacks that I should avoid feeding my puppy?
Answer: You should avoid all snacks that are not sold or marketed as a puppy treat. Remember some treats are high in sugar and should be limited in the amount that you feed to your puppy. Also, giving treats is an excellent training aid and reward but, giving too much will only cause your puppy to eat less of its puppy food which is the best nutrition for your puppy. Snacks and treats can always be broken or cut into smaller pieces; a puppy will respond to a small treat just as well as a large piece. Tibetan Terriers love carrots, and this is a healthier less expensive option. I would never, ever, recommend rawhide chews.
SPECIAL NOTE REGARDING CHOCOLATE:-
Chocolate can be fatal to dogs and the vet gave me this ratio to work on. 10 gm of choc per per 1 kilo of dog weight. Most tts are close to 10 kilo so vet says - Fatal is 70 gms of dark chocolate - milk choc they need a bit more. It really is not very much when you think on the size of bars these days. I wish people could be more aware of this dark chocolate effect on dogs especially the 70% cocoa bars.

Question: How often should I give my puppy a bath?
Answer: Baths can be given as often as once a week, and as needed in between. You can use a gentle puppy shampoo, but because the hair on your Tibetan Terrier is so much like human hair, I generally use L’oreal for Kids, as it won’t sting their eyes. You should still be careful not to get any shampoo in the eyes, as it will frighten the puppy. Remember, keep bathing as a routine; this will decrease the anxiety for the puppy and you.

Question: How do I house break my puppy?
Answer:
We encourage and recommend Crate Training. This method could cut house breaking time in half. The basic method of crate training is to place the puppy in the crate any time you can not watch the puppy. When the door is open the first duty for your puppy is to go to the bath room. Stay with your puppy during the training process; always go to the same spot; wait until your puppy eliminates; and then reward and praise your puppy. The cage/crate will be your puppies sleeping and eating place. Instinctively your puppy will try not to eliminate where they eat and sleep. Remember, be consistent and use positive reinforcement to reward good behaviour. Other methods are newspaper, puppy pads, and puppy litter - see our section called ‘Housebreaking’ for further advice.

Question: How do I keep my puppy from chewing on the furniture, shoes, etc?
Answer: The best way to keep your puppy from chewing on inappropriate objects is to provide toys and treats for your puppy to chew on. Start from day one, teaching your puppy what "No" means. Move the puppy away from anything you do not want the puppy to chew on and give the puppy one of its own toys. Keeping the puppy in its cage crate when you are not at home or are sleeping will provide a safe place for your puppy and prevent the puppy from harming itself or your belongings.

Question: How often should I take my puppy to the Vet for a check up?
Answer: All puppies purchased from “SIDDHARTHA” will be Vet checked and vaccinated age appropriate. In fact most times they are fully vaccinated, however if not, we will give you a date as to when the next vaccination is due. This is the next date you should visit your Vet. In most cases your puppy will need a booster vaccination sometime between one and three weeks from the date of purchase. Your Vet will schedule any further vaccinations that your puppy will need. Routine checkups are not necessary for your puppy unless you feel there is a need for your puppy to see a Vet, so long as you can look after worm and flea treatments yourself.

Question: What should I do with my puppy when I have to leave the house? Is it ok to crate him?
Answer: We believe your puppy should definitely be crated anytime you leave your home. This will keep the puppy safe and give you the peace of mind that nothing will be chewed and accidents will not be happening all around your house. Puppies feel comfortable in a small space such as a crate and soon will recognize the crate as its home. If not using a crate, always provide a safe environment for your puppy while you are gone. And, as always, whether using a crate or not, your puppy must have access to food and water at all times.

Question: How often should I exercise my puppy?
Answer: Puppies are very active. Most puppies will receive adequate exercise with normal activity and playing in your home. Remember, walking on a leash is a learned behaviour and will take some time and training for your puppy to master. Walking should be introduced gradually – no strenuous long walks until your puppy has matured sufficiently to be able to take it in his stride.

Question: What type of crate should I buy?
Answer: We recommend the wire crate for in house and show use, as they have a greater air flow, puppy can see all around him, cause less static electricity on long coats, and fold up easily. We also use the wire crates on Ferry crossings, but use the plastic Vari-Kennels on flights.

Question: Should my dog be sedated for a flight?
Answer: No! My vet very kindly explained to me; that under sedation blood pressure drops and high altitude would cause it to drop even further, so sedation is not recommended, and I personally have found that Tibetan Terriers travel very well without any ill effects.

Question: What information do you provide to new owners?
Answer: We provide a puppy kit, which includes a puppy manual, tips on raising a Tibetan Terrier, health and shot records, pictures of the parents, eye certificates and hip score certificates for the parents, suggestions on training, information on hereditary problems, recommendations on brushes, shampoo and things like that, pictures of puppy at different ages from birth onward, a picture of the litter together, full colour pedigrees, registration documents, i.e.. change of ownership form, contract, microchip details, and lists of Tibetan Terrier reference books, advice on feeding, grooming and general care. Included are also a bowl or two, a toy, sometimes a blanket, some recommended treats, and of course food, both tinned and dried.

Question: I wonder if you could tell me if Pancreatitis is a problem you have come across with any of your dogs. Tinkerbelle, our Tibetan, is three and a half years of age and is recovering well from being very very ill. Lots of testing and an x-ray later and many things were eliminated as being the cause. The vets came to the conclusion from the testing that it was Pancreatitis and though not curable the symptoms would be treatable.
Answer: Pancreatitis is not something I have ever come across in my own dogs, however the TTCA commissioned a health survey in 2003. Approximately 200 surveys were returned by people living with over 740 dogs, and the results in relation to pancreatitis were.

Midwest

North West

Can./Europe

North East

South East

South West

CA & HI

Totals

1

 

1

3

2

1

2

10

Pancreatitis can be acute or chronic and mild or severe. Vomiting and abdominal pain are key clinical signs in dogs with pancreatitis. Radiographic findings are non specific but ultrasonographic findings can be quite specific. Serum amylase and lipase activity are of limited usefulness in the dog. Serum TLI concentration is specific for exocrine pancreatic function but lacks sensitivity. Serum PLI concentration is the most sensitive and specific diagnostic tool for pancreatitis in dogs. The following article on Pancreatitis (Inflammation) by Holly Nash, DVM, MS Veterinary Services Department, Drs. Foster & Smith, Inc., may be of some interest to you, so I have reprinted it in full.
The
pancreas is a V-shaped organ located behind the stomach and the first section of the small intestine, the duodenum. It has two main functions: it aids in metabolism of sugar in the body through the production of insulin, and is necessary for the digestion of nutrients by producing pancreatic enzymes. These enzymes help the body promote the digestion and absorption of fats. Acute pancreatitis is a sudden onset of pancreatic inflammation. Causes - Multiple factors can contribute to the development of pancreatitis. Certain medications, infections; metabolic disorders including hyperlipidemia (high amounts of lipid in the blood) and hypercalcemia (high amounts of calcium in the blood); and trauma and shock can be associated with the development of pancreatitis. Middle-aged dogs appear to be at increased risk of developing pancreatitis; as a breed, Schnauzers and Yorkshire Terriers appear to be more prone to pancreatitis. Nutrition also plays a role. Dogs with diets high in fat, or dogs who 'steal' or are fed greasy 'people food' seem to have a high incidence of the disease. Symptoms - Common symptoms of the acute form of pancreatitis in dogs include a very painful abdomen, abdominal distention, lack of appetite, depression, dehydration, a 'hunched up' posture, vomiting, diarrhea and yellow, greasy stool. Fever often accompanies these symptoms. Animals with more severe disease can develop heart arrhythmias, sepsis (body-wide infection), difficulty breathing, and a life-threatening condition called disseminated intravascular coagulation (DIC), which results in multiple hemorrhages. If the inflammation is severe, organs surrounding the pancreas could be 'autodigested' by pancreatic enzymes released from the damaged pancreas and become permanently damaged. Diagnosis - The diagnosis of pancreatitis is made through information obtained from the history, the physical exam, and laboratory testing. Dogs with pancreatitis generally have an increased blood levels of the pancreatic enzymes called amylase and lipase. If the liver also becomes inflamed, liver enzymes as measured in the blood may be increased. A rather new test, serum trypsin-like immunoreactivity, may prove to be a valuable diagnostic aid. The white blood cell count is generally increased in acute pancreatitis. Radiography (x-rays) and ultrasound can also help in making the diagnosis. Biopsy can result in a conclusive diagnosis, but is not commonly performed. Treatment - The goal of treatment is to rest the pancreas, provide supportive care and control complications. Treatment always begins with a withholding of food, water, and oral medications for at least 24 hours. The lack of oral intake stops the stimulation of the pancreas to produce digestive enzymes. Depending upon the animal's response, food intake can be started again after a few days. The dog is generally fed small meals of a bland, easily digestible, low-fat food. Over the course of a week or more, the size of meals and quantity of food fed are increased. The dog may need to stay on the special diet for life, or it may be possible to gradually reintroduce the former diet. The second major component of treatment is fluid therapy. Dehydration and electrolyte imbalances are common in dogs with acute pancreatitis, and water intake is often restricted so fluid therapy is usually needed. Fluids are either given subcutaneously or intravenous. Dogs who are experiencing severe pain can be treated with pain relievers such as meperidine or butorphanol. Antibiotics are often administered prophylactically to protect against infection. If the pancreatitis was caused by a medication, the medication should be stopped. If it was caused by a toxin, infection, or other condition, appropriate therapy for the underlying condition should be started. In rare instances, where there are intestinal complications or the development of a pancreatic abscess, surgery may be necessary. Long-term management and prognosis. Pancreatitis can be a very unpredictable disease. In most cases, if the pancreatitis was mild and the pet only had one episode, chances of recovery are good, and avoiding high fat foods may be all that is necessary to prevent recurrence or complications. In other cases, what appears to be a mild case may progress, or may be treated successfully only to have recurrences, sometimes severe. Dogs with severe pancreatitis can recover, but may also develop fatal complications. The risk of developing fatal pancreatitis is increased in dogs who are overweight, or have diabetes mellitus, hyperadrenocorticism, hypothyroidism, gastrointestinal tract disease, and epilepsy. Pets who have repeated bouts of pancreatitis may need to be fed low-fat diets to prevent recurrence. Even so, some animals develop chronic pancreatitis, which can lead to diabetes mellitus and/or pancreatic insufficiency
, also called 'maldigestion syndrome.' In pancreatic insufficiency, the nutrients in food are passed out in the feces undigested. An animal with this disease often has a ravenous appetite, diarrhea, and weight loss. Even though he is eating, he could literally starve to death. Treatment for pancreatic insufficiency is lifelong and expensive, but is possible. The pet's digestive enzymes are replaced through a product processed from pancreases of hogs and cattle which contain large quantities of the digestive enzymes. A change in diet with added nutritional supplements may also be necessary. Summary - Acute pancreatitis can be a life-threatening condition, and early recognition and treatment can improve chances of recovery. In dogs, fever, lack of appetite, depression, and vomiting are the most common signs. Treatment is based upon stopping all oral intake to rest the pancreas, correcting the dehydration and maintaining proper fluid and electrolyte balances, and treating any complications or underlying conditions.

Question: Secondly - this morning we have removed a tick - horrid things aren't they - from under Tinks chin. I treat her for worms and fleas every month as we live in the country and thought this would deal with things like ticks too but obviously not. Can you post info about ticks on your site. They are horrid things and can you say what effect, long or short term, they are likely to have on the dogs. Tinks bedding is washed regularly as she is and treated regularly too. She is a beautiful pet and we want to do the best for her.
Answer: With mild winters and spring moisture a threat to your pet increases …. ticks. In the countryside areas ticks are in the bushes in record numbers waiting to pounce on you and your pets. Ticks crawl on and attach to the skin of their hosts in the nymph, larva, and adult stages. They then feed on the host’s blood. They leave each host between stages to molt and grow. Dogs, etc., can actually develop blood loss anemia with heavy infestations. Ticks are attracted to hosts by motion, changes in light, warmth, and increased carbon dioxide levels. Tick bites are painless but local irritation and infections can occur. Salivary secretions of neurotoxins may cause diseases such as tick paralysis Ticks are carriers of many diseases infecting people and their pets. Tick-borne pathogens may affect virtually any organ system. Ticks should be removed quickly to limit time available for neurotoxin or pathogen transmission. Check your dog thoroughly after a romp through the bushes and fields. Ticks are smooth, round or oval lumps attached by a tiny mouth to the skin. They can be difficult to see, especially on dark or thick-coated dogs. Grasp the tick close to the skin with fine pointed tweezers and gently pull free. Wash the region with soap and water to prevent local inflammation and infection. Hot matches, nail polish and Vaseline are usually ineffective and prolong the attachment. Bathing, spraying or powdering the pet with appropriate products, can also kill ticks. Consult your veterinarian and avoid these unwelcome passengers on you and your dog. For further information click here.


 

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